“The difference between me and a madman is that I’m not mad”.
S. Dalì
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Itinerary in pills
- Day 1: Lagoons, Dalì desert, Geyser, Thermal baths
- Day 2: Valle de las Rocas, Italia Perdida and Canyons
- Day 3: Salar de Uyuni
- Conclusions
Introduction
When I began to sketch out the itinerary for my trip to Ethiopia, which took place at the end of 2024, I decided to include the Amhara region as my final stop. My aim was to visit the Simien Mountains, home to some of Africa’s highest peaks. Whilst the allure of these mountains is, in some ways, indescribable – as I had, in fact, expected – the main reason for including that destination in my itinerary was not, however, to explore those places, but rather my desire to test myself, for the first time, at altitudes of up to 4,000 metres (the Simien Mountains actually rise even higher, but I stopped lower down). It was a favourable opportunity for me, not least because I knew I would be at altitude for a limited time (in that instance, it was three days), and so it was reasonably safe.
Whilst my body was preparing to cope with the change in air pressure for the first time, my mind was looking much further ahead. Reaching high altitudes didn’t appeal to me because of the thrill of risk, but because I anticipated that, sooner or later, I would visit places where acclimatization would not only be a crucial factor, but would run parallel to the journey itself.
And so here I am, two years on from my trip to Ethiopia, recounting my experience in the Salar de Uyuni – the main destination I had in mind whilst thinking that, if my body responded well enough, I would have to push myself even higher.
Itinerary in pills
Local agency or self-drive?
Contrary to what one might think, it is theoretically possible to visit the Salar de Uyuni independently by hiring a 4×4 vehicle. However, due to a number of factors that make this option extremely risky – including the complete lack of road markings and signposts outside accommodation facilities – the vast majority of travellers rely on local agencies, which provide, amongst other things, suitable vehicles and experienced drivers. Moreover, given that the cost of an organised tour is by no means high (at least by Western standards) and that, in any case, you travel in small groups, I am among those who have left the desire to venture out on one’s own to others.
Which tour to choose (and how)
Specifically, I used a local agency I found in San Pedro de Atacama, a Chilean town from which I set off after visiting the stunning Atacama Desert. Setting off from San Pedro, you can choose either the 4-day, 3-night option (returning to San Pedro) or the 3-day, 2-night option (with Uyuni as the final destination). As my journey was set to continue into Bolivia, I chose the second option. Total cost: 240,000 Chilean pesos (just under €240), including accommodation (in reasonably decent establishments), meals, a guide and fuel. In addition, I needed 300 Bolivianos (equivalent to €30, based on the exchange rate available at houses of change in San Pedro) to pay for some of the entrance fees during the tour. The cost of the tour varies very little amongst the countless agencies in San Pedro, and even when departing from Uyuni (with San Pedro as the final destination, or returning to Uyuni), the price remains similar. Naturally, the cost of the 4-day, 3-night tour is slightly higher (around 280,000 pesos), whilst, when departing from Uyuni, it is also possible to visit the Salar on a day trip (staying only in the area near the town, without venturing to the border with Chile and therefore missing out on various attractions). Another town from which you can reach the Salar de Uyuni via a local agency is Tupiza, in Bolivia; in that case, the tours follow a slightly different route, whilst still covering the main highlights that can be visited when departing from other locations.
As mentioned, you can book tours directly at your departure point; one or two days’ notice is sufficient. However, for those who find the booking process stressful, I suggest visiting the Nomades website, a tour operator that works with some local agencies and does not charge any surcharges compared to what you’d find directly on the spot. The advantage of booking locally is the possibility of negotiation (albeit minimal) and having a better idea of the accommodation you’ll be staying in. All things considered, I can say that booking locally worked out well for me, but it wouldn’t have made much difference if I’d arranged everything through Nomades.
The 3-day itinerary, regardless of which agency you choose to use, always includes the same stops, which I’ve summarised in the table below:
| Day | Attractions |
|---|---|
| 1 | Laguna Blanca, Laguna Verde, Deserto di Dalì, Terme Polques, Geyser Sol de la Manana, Laguna Colorada |
| 2 | Copa del Mundo, Italia Perdida, Laguna Vinto, Canyon dell’Anaconda, Mirador Sora, Julaca |
| 3 | Isla Incahuasi, Dakar Monument, Playa Blanca, Colchani, Cementerio de Trenes |
When to go
The Salar de Uyuni can be visited all year round, but the stops on tours may vary depending on the season, particularly those in the area around Uyuni. During the rainy season, between December and April, you can witness the so-called ‘mirror effect’, which occurs when the salt flats are covered in water; however, some attractions may be inaccessible (including Isla Incahuasi) precisely because of the excess water. During the dry season, between May and November, you can see the salt polygons – formations that emerge once the salt flats have dried out – and it is generally possible to explore the entire desert. As I had already witnessed the stunning mirror effect at Lake Assale (once again in Ethiopia), I decided to opt for the dry season. Specifically, my trip took place in June 2026.
Day 1: Lagoons, Dalì desert, Geyser, Thermal baths
I was picked up from my guest house in San Pedro de Atacama at around 6.30 am. In the van (which would soon turn into a 4×4), all my fellow travellers were already there: three very friendly Portuguese girls and a 19-year-old Japanese lad, who was the most funny character on the tour.
Hito Cajon
The first stop on the tour is at Hito Cajón, at an altitude of around 4,500 metres on the border between Chile and Bolivia, passing through the immigration offices of both countries (starting, of course, with the Chilean one, as we were leaving the country). Everything went very smoothly, even for our Japanese friend who had lost the document issued when he entered Chile – one of those documents that everyone is advised to guard as if it were their own child. Whilst we waited for the offices to open, we took the opportunity to have breakfast, prepared by our driver. The temperature was freezing, but the view around us was spectacular.
Laguna Blanca
Once you’ve crossed the border into Bolivia, the tour proper begins. It starts at Laguna Blanca, a salt lake situated in the Edoardo Avaroa Nature Reserve, at an altitude of over 4,300 metres. Its milky colour is due to the presence of borax, which is found in high concentrations. As it is June – one of the sunniest months of the year, but also one of the coldest – the water in the lagoon is frozen, but you can still see the mirror-like effect characteristic of the lagoon, and thus the reflection of the Licancabur, Juriques and Sairecabur volcanoes. The visit to this spot lasts a few minutes and is not physically demanding (as is the case with practically the rest of the tour), apart from the altitude.
Laguna Verde
Next to Laguna Blanca lies Laguna Verde, another spectacular salt lake, situated at the foot of the Licancabur volcano. The colour of the water – which, once again, is frozen – is due to the presence of certain minerals, including arsenic, lead, sulphur and calcium carbonate. Here too, the visit takes just a few minutes.
Dalì desert
The third stop of the day, also situated within the Edoardo Avaroa Nature Reserve, is the Dalí Desert, so named for its barren landscape and bizarrely shaped rocks, which are reminiscent of the backgrounds in some of the Spanish artist’s works. It is curious that, in reality, Dalí was unaware of this place’s existence. The Dalí Desert is of volcanic origin, lies at an altitude of over 4,700 metres and is characterised by the colours of the mountains, which range from ochre to red, due to the high concentration of minerals.
To be honest, this was the least exciting stop of the day; I must say that my expectations were much higher.
Termas de Polques
Just 10 kilometres from the Dalí Desert, we find the Termas de Polques, a series of natural thermal pools situated at an altitude of around 4,400 metres, set in a truly stunning landscape on the shores of Laguna Chalviri. The water in the thermal pools is quite warm (between 30 and 38 degrees) and offers a most welcome contrast to the cold outside temperature.
A visit to the thermal baths is one of the two longest stops of the day; in fact, the stop lasts a good hour. There are also changing rooms near the pools.
Geyser Sol de la Manana
After a hot bath at the thermal spa, we set off again towards the Sol de la Manana Geyser, a geothermal area situated at an altitude of almost 5,000 metres (4,970 m, to be precise). As well as being the highest point of the trip, at the time of writing this article it is also the highest altitude I have ever reached. But there’s still room for improvement! By a margin of just 100 metres, this field ranks second amongst the world’s highest geothermal areas, after Dagejia in Tibet.
The area is famous for its pools of boiling mud and the steam plumes, which rise up to 50 metres high. The best time to visit the field would be early in the morning, due to the lower temperature, which makes the vapours more striking. We arrived in the early afternoon, however, which nevertheless allowed us to see the mud bubbling more clearly and appreciate the fabulous colours of the surrounding landscape. Our stop lasted about half an hour.
Laguna Colorada
At this point, it was time to visit Laguna Colorada, undoubtedly the most interesting attraction of the day, which I personally find just as thrilling as the Salar de Uyuni itself. It is a salt lake, situated at an altitude of around 4,300 metres, which owes its reddish-orange colour to the presence of a particular type of red algae that grows in the highly saline water. Unlike Laguna Blanca and Laguna Verde, Laguna Colorada is very extensive; in fact, we spent a good hour or so here.
What makes the landscape particularly striking, in my view, is the contrast between the colour of the water and that of the (white) borax islands, which creates some incredible shades. The presence of flamingos and the ever-charming alpacas is also noteworthy.
Our first day of the tour comes to an end at Laguna Colorada. We spend the night in a fairly basic accommodation in Villa Mar, but it’s perfectly acceptable. I should mention that internet access was also available, at an additional cost of 10 Bs (€1). There’s no heating, but with a couple of extra blankets you don’t suffer too much from the cold (and it was June, one of the coldest months).
Day 2: Valle de las Rocas, Italia Perdida and Canyons
Valle de las Rocas
We begin the day with the Valle de las Rocas, where the Copa del Mundo stands out – a rock formation whose shape is very reminiscent of the coveted trophy. The Valle de las Rocas is of volcanic origin and lies at an altitude of between 3,800 and 4,200 metres. As well as the Copa del Mundo, there are other distinctive rock formations, including one shaped like a camel (from a distance, it looks like a real camel). We then pass briefly by Laguna Vinto, which we view from the car.
Italia Perdida
The second stop of the day is the famous Italia Perdida, which is actually still part of the Valle de las Rocas. It is a sort of stone labyrinth, which owes its name to a local legend, according to which an Italian explorer visiting the area lost his bearings and died after being unable to find his way back. A second version, however, links the name to the shape of one of the rock faces, which, when viewed from a certain angle, resembles the outline of the Italian aerial view. Among the other rock formations, one that bears a not-too-vague resemblance to a heart is particularly noteworthy.
Italia Perdida is where we make the longest scenic stop of the day; we stay here for a good hour. The area can be explored with a simple walk, though it is worth noting that the altitude is around 3,700 metres.
Anaconda Canyon
A short distance from Italia Perdida lies what I personally consider to be the most spectacular attraction of the day: the Anaconda Canyon. The canyon is so named because of the path taken by the river that runs through it, which, when viewed from above, resembles the silhouette of a huge snake. We are at an altitude of around 3,800 metres.
The visit to the site is rather brief; it essentially consists of looking out over the canyon from the Mirador de la Anaconda, a ledge that offers a view of the canyon in its entirety. As it is very windy and the mirador isn’t very wide, I stop a short distance from the point where it juts out the furthest, but I can still see the view quite clearly.
Canyon de Sora
Continuing for a few kilometres, we then arrive at the Canyon de Sora, which takes its name from the river that flows through it. It is, in fact, the same geographical location as the Canyon de la Anaconda, which is one of the reasons why our stop here really only lasts long enough to take a photo.
Julaca
The final stop of the day is in Julaca, an old railway village with the charm of complete isolation. The village lies at an altitude of around 3,600 metres and marks the boundary with the Salar, lying just 20 km outside it. The stop in Julaca is quite long and touristy; in fact, it essentially consists of having a beer with friends in a bar known for its quinoa beer.
Once our stop in Julaca is over, we head to our accommodation in Colcha K, which I must say we really liked. Here too, you can connect to the internet for 10 Bs.
Unpopular opinion: to be honest, I was expecting something a bit more exciting from this second day of the tour. Apart from the Anaconda Canyon – which, incidentally, isn’t among the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen – the rest seemed a bit disappointing.
Day 3: Salar de Uyuni
Isla Incahuasi
Here we are at last on the most eagerly awaited day – not just of the tour, but of the whole trip. It’s time for the Salar de Uyuni, the main reason for my trip to Bolivia.
The alarm clock goes off very early. It’s still dark when, after a good hour’s drive (this stretch of road is the one that most of all requires an expert guide), we arrive at Isla Incahuasi, hoping to catch the sunrise from its highest point. Isla Incahuasi is a small hill situated in the heart of the Salar de Uyuni, at an altitude of around 3,650 metres. The islet is actually the remnant of an ancient submerged volcano and is characterised by the presence of countless giant cacti, making it one of the Salar de Uyuni’s most iconic attractions.
It takes us about half an hour to reach the top; the climb isn’t too strenuous and the landscape becomes increasingly spectacular the higher we go. The colours change constantly with the sunlight; naturally, the best time is when the sun rises over the horizon. Along with our visit to Laguna Colorada, the sunrise at Isla Incahuasi was the moment of the trip that moved me the most.
Shortly after dawn, we head back down to the foot of Isla Incahuasi to take in the vast expanse of salt, observing the characteristic polygonal formations created by the crystals.
Dakar Monument
The second stop of the day is at the Dakar Monument, a salt statue erected recently to commemorate the passage of the Dakar Rally, which has become one of the best-known landmarks in the Salar de Uyuni. Next to the Dakar Monument are the Hotel Playa Blanca, the first salt hotel, and the Plaza de Banderas, where travellers hang the flag of their home country, creating a striking contrast between the colours of the flags and the white of the salt flats.
Playa Blanca
We move slightly away from the Dakar Monument to find ourselves in the middle of the salt flats, with nothing else visible on the horizon. The lack of visual landmarks, combined with the completely flat terrain, significantly reduces our sense of depth. This effect lends itself very well to so-called ‘forced perspective’ photos, which we enjoy taking. It is here that I’ll find myself battling a dinosaur 😊.
Colchani and Cementerio de Trenes
After a brief stop in the village of Colchani, where you can buy a few souvenirs (I take the opportunity to buy a physical Bolivian SIM card, as my journey will continue for a few more days once the tour is over), it’s time for the tour’s final attraction: the Cementerio de Trenes. These are the remains of a railway network, built in the late 19th century, which was abandoned in the 1940s following the collapse of the mining industry due to the depletion of the deposits. Several railway companies left their trains behind on the site. The Train Graveyard marks the end of the Salar de Uyuni tour. At 2.30 pm I’m already at the coach station; my coach to Potosí is due to leave half an hour later. But that’s another story.
Conclusions
Several people who had visited the Salar de Uyuni before me had told me that, for them, it was one of the most spectacular places they had ever seen. For some, it even deserved the gold medal (I am, of course, talking about people with rather enviable travel credentials).
My expectations were therefore very high, even though, as mentioned in the introductory paragraphs, I had already seen the mirror-like waters of Lake Assale in Ethiopia by the time of my trip. Those expectations were by no means disappointed, but, to be honest, they weren’t exceeded either. Is the Salar de Uyuni (and by Salar de Uyuni I mean all the places visited during the tour, not just the salt flat itself) one of the most enchanting places I have ever seen? The answer is yes. Would I even put it on the podium? The answer is probably no. As far as I can remember, I’ve gazed in far greater wonder, for example, at Dallol, in Mangystau, or at the highest point of the Big Daddy, sticking strictly to land-based locations.
Speaking of a podium, if I had to choose the three most unmissable places on the Salar de Uyuni tour, I’d venture the following ranking:
- Gold to Laguna Colorada. Perhaps it’s because I like colourful landscapes, or more likely because of how different it is from the places I’ve visited on other trips, but in my opinion this is likely the most spectacular spot.
- Silver goes to the sunrise from Isla Incahuasi. The ‘likely’ in the previous point stems from my indecision regarding the splendid colours best appreciated at the most evocative moment within the Salar. It was a tough choice.
- Bronze goes to Playa Blanca. The loss of perspective is rather surreal, and at the same time it’s fascinating to observe the salt polygons.
I did, however, find the sights on the second day of the tour and the Dalí Desert a bit disappointing, as I’d had higher expectations of them.